An adventure into antiquity

An adventure into antiquity

Wednesday, March 16, 2016

Best of Egypt and Jordan

Time goes so quickly--we're at the end of another journey of discovery! Before the "best of," a few travel advisories:

-Tourism in Egypt and Jordan is way down because of Western misperceptions about security. Bad for them, good for us. Fact is, the Nile Valley and Jordan are very safe, people are friendly (we always got the thumbs-up for being from the US), and the crowds that mobbed the major attractions pre-2011 just aren't there. We found ourselves almost alone at wonderful sites like the burial chamber of the Great Pyramid and Abu Simbel.

-While most countries outside the US don't use tipping, in Egypt and Jordan it's a constant. We scrambled to find small change to tip bathroom attendants, guards at temples and tombs, hotel housekeepers (all male, don't know why), and restaurant servers.
-Almost all the men, especially in Jordan, smoke. It's a Mad Men scene. If you want clean air, use forethought in choosing restaurant tables (preferably outdoor, which there are many), places to use the internet, etc. Internet, by the way, seems much improved overall since our trip around the world two years ago.
-While many people speak English, only a few speak it fluently, so don't assume that every word is understood.
-Hospitality is shown through massive amounts of food and frequent cups of highly sweetened tea. Unless you're a linebacker, I'd suggest ordering just one main course and a couple of sides at a restaurant to feed two. The food is great--best falafels, hummus, and babaganouj ever!
-Egyptians and Jordanians are extremely polite and welcoming when it comes to visitors. However, the traveler may observe different perspectives on problem solving. For example, Judy asked the hotel clerk in Aqaba about a persistent noise outside our room at night. He said it was a ventilation system at the upscale hotel next door, that his management had talked to them about it and then "destroyed it three times" before the other hotel hired a security guard.

Anyway, it's hard to narrow down, but here's my take on the best experiences:

-In Cairo, our first sight of the Giza pyramids was a wonder, and the Egyptian Museum's collection is vast and amazing.
-The temple of Ptah at Karnak temple containing a statue of the Egyptian goddess Sekhmet was truly magical. I don't know how to put it into words, but I'm an empirical sort of guy yet felt altered in a very good way.
-Many of the 3000+ year old tomb paintings in the Valley of the Kings, tombs of the nobles, and workers' village looked like the craftsmen had left their mark yesterday.
-The Jordan Museum in Amman is truly world-class. Its collection includes some of the first known human statues from 7500 BC and a few of the Dead Sea scrolls.
-Floating in the Dead Sea was great fun, as was experiencing local culture at the nearby hot springs.
-The swirling natural hues of rock in the tombs at Petra. It was worth compiling a gallery of natural rock art.
-I love diving, so can't leave out the myriad of colorful fish and corals in the Gulf of Aqaba.

I have just two short videos to share: baptisms in the narrow Jordan River, and a carriage ride through the streets of Luxor.

Some humble submissions for best photos:
Djoser, builder of the Step Pyramid
Nile fisherman
Stairs at Edfu temple


Tomb of Sennedjem at Workers' Village
Sekhment, temple of Ptah at Karnak

Neolithic plaster-covered skull, Amman
Shrine of John the Baptist (credit Judy)
Siq, Wadi Rum
Royal tombs at Petra

[Gallery of Petra natural rock art]
Jellyfish (credit Judy)
Aqaba mosque (credit Judy)


I hope you had a wonderful vicarious trip! We are already thinking about the next one--maybe Cuba if it opens up.

No comments:

Post a Comment